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(More customer reviews)The Dessert ArchitectA Pastry Bible
Chef Robert Wemischner's new book is geared to the serious pastry-chef wannabe.
By Tim Fischer | Thursday, 11 February 2010 | 15:00
If you've ever thought about becoming a pastry chef or want to know how a restaurant dessert makes its way from an idea to the kitchen to the plate and ultimately to your table, Robert Wemischner's, "The Dessert Architect" would be a wonderful addition to your library. Wemischner has taught baking and pastry at the Los Angeles Trade Technical College for 18 years. He has written four culinary books, was a pioneer in the gourmet-to-go trend and is a regular contributor to Food Arts and Pastry Art and Design magazines.
Written for pastry students but accessible to anyone interested in learning the essentials, "The Dessert Architect" (available at [...]) is an informed look at what it takes to work in the business today. Featured throughout the six chapters are sidebars from several professional pastry chefs like Gale Gand, Claudia Fleming and Pichet Ong, writing about personal experiences in their own kitchens, offering inspiration and helping to expand this clearly written book into a satisfying baking tool.
Wemischner begins with a chapter on the four cornerstones of pastry: flavor, texture, temperature, and contrast. He uses charts to categorize each, demonstrating, for example, ingredients that are dominant flavors (chocolate, hazelnut), sour (lemon, cranberry), and pungent (ginger, cardamom). As a result, readers are better equipped to understand how the layering of these elements can make a dessert complex. The chapter's final recipe, "A Couple of Doughnuts," incorporates all four cornerstones: caramel coated poached white peaches with white doughnut peach and violet mousse, and a highly recommended buttermilk spiced doughnut precariously perched on top. I have never made doughnuts before so I was eager to try this part of the recipe. With a beautiful assortment of spices including mace, nutmeg and cinnamon, and straightforward instructions that were easy to follow, I could not have been happier with the final results. Now all I have to do is figure out what to do with a gallon of spiced frying oil.
Other chapters focus on ingredients and equipment, creating a dessert menu, beverage pairings, and particularly interesting, plating. Wemischner establishes guidelines on how much sauce to use (too little can be just as bad as too much) and illustrates basic shapes for cakes and ice creams. The tip that I found most useful for home bakers is to draw your design before you put the dessert on the plate.
The book's more than 50 meticulously detailed recipes (you'll need your kitchen scale -- ingredients are measured by weight) are accompanied by full-color photographs by Elon Schoenholz. Recipes, designed for restaurants, are comprised of several components. For instance, the Chocolate Melting Moments Torte Flavored with Assam Tea includes the chocolate tea torte, malted milk chocolate ice cream, a tea-infused plating sauce and an Isomalt (a sugar substitute) and tea garnish. As a home baker, I find it extremely helpful that alongside each recipe is a list of equipment needed and the order in which to make each component. After finishing a recipe, Wemischner challenges his students to think of ways to create that same dessert using the recipe only as a guideline and incorporating alternate flavors or different techniques.
The appendix is filled with information on ingredients, specialty produce, equipment, a concise glossary, and website addresses for spots like the Culinary Institute of America, the French Culinary Institute, even King Arthur Flour, that offer educational opportunities for students.
After finishing Wemischner's book, readers will have a much clearer understanding of what it takes to be a part of a pastry kitchen. But what I enjoyed most about "The Dessert Architect" is Wemischner's commitment to his students: He never lets them stray too far from the fundamentals, and always encourages them to push harder.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fischer managed The Cook's Library in Los Angeles, named one of the "Top 10 Cookbook Stores in the World" by Saveur. He also has been a judge for the IACP Cookbook Awards for four years.
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A complete guide to building versatile and creative desserts, The Dessert Architect offers valuable insight into developing a well-balanced dessert menu and modern plating techniques while featuring 50 detailed multicomponent recipes that can be mixed and matched for endless combinations.This landmark work offers suggestions for pairing beverages with desserts, sources for ingredients, and an overview of essential tools and equipment. Its wealth of recipes is thoughtfully organized by main ingredient for easy retrieval. Full-color photographs of each completed dessert?along with step-by-step process shots?serve as a visual reference for the major techniques used in the recipes.The Dessert Architect is an invaluable resource for professional pastry programs and a source of inspiration for chefs worldwide.
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